Pavingexpert - Drainage - Manholes and Inspection Chambers. Reflex Connection. One question which has been asked several times concerns connecting a new drainage point to an existing IC where the direction of flow from the new is opposite to that of the existing. There seems to be some sort of perception that connecting two pipelines that are effectively running in opposite directions will cause all sorts of problems. If the new line was brought in to the IC at 1. Reflex Connection. In essence, the line of approach of the new drainage is curved so that it comes into the chamber at an angle of 9.
- FAQs about AFT Fathom: software for incompressible pipe flow analysis and system modeling.
- (4) Stainless Power Headers lift power & sound without lifting your wallet. These performance exhaust headers are crafted from stainless steel and precision tuned.
- Types of Chambers: Access chambers (as discussed on the Connections page) are intended to provide simple access for cursory inspection and access for drain rods or.
- Why Pay For Shipping When You Can Get It For Free? AmericanMuscle is very proud to offer Free Standard Shipping on everything and Same Day Shipping (on most parts) if.
- Learn how to do just about everything at eHow. Find expert advice along with How To videos and articles, including instructions on how to make, cook, grow, or do.
- Procedures for Brazing Pipe and Tubing. CUT PIPE SQUARE Cut to the exact length required using a tube cutter or hacksaw. If a hacksaw is used, a sawing fixture should.
Surprised to see a plumbing article on a MoneySaving site? Don't be, plumbing is very expensive and if you can do it yourself, you'll save some cash. 4/5 December 14, 2015. Workmanship. As the title suggests, I am deducting a star due to the workman ship. I posted a picture of the mac mid pipe.
As usual, this is explained most easily using diagrams..
Sort your pipes out for free!. I would recommend you get 3 quotes from local plumbers for this type of job; the electric shower MUST be installed directly to the existing fuse box. Tell them that your husband is willing to carry out some of the more mundane (but necessary) work and that should help reduce the cost. I want to fit a mixer/ temp control unit to a shower head. The shower head is 6ft from the shower incoming H/C. This is so I can set the water temp then get under. What sort is the best for a bathroom 1.
WC? I have arthritis in my hands. I don't know what type of system you have in your home (tank fed or directly off the water main), however, I recommend a THEROMSTATICALLY controlled blending valve is installed on the hot and cold supplies to your shower.
This will ensure you do not get scolded and have a consistent temperature at all times. Our bathroom sink and bath get regularly clogged. Which is the most effective method for clearing this?
The usual brands only work for about 1- 2 months. It would seem that there is partial blockage or that there is insufficient fall (the angle at which the waste pipe slopes away from the property). You will need professional advice on this. I suggest you obtain 3 quotes from local plumbers. Sometimes when the water in the sink is left running, it starts coming up the bath waste. What's causing this? It would appear that there is partial blockage or that there is insufficient fall (the angle at which the waste pipe slopes away from the property.
You will need professional advice on this. I suggest you obtain 3 quotes from local plumbers. I live in a very hard water area. How effective are the magnetic/electric gadgets that claim to prevent scaling? Is there a cheap alternative? Difficult one!! I'm not convinced about there effectiveness, however I can recommend the electric version.
You buy the kit which comprises of a bendable wire which you coil around the pipe and plug in. The low voltage creates an electro magnetic field which de- ionises the neutrons in the water make (It would appear I'm turning into a train spotter!). Mini water conditioners are also available which you would have top up approx every 1. Both units cost approx Ј4. Every time I shut off a mains cold water pipe in the house, there is a knock. I've tried lifting up the floorboards and jamming any wobbly pipes with polystyrene or pipe clips, but it still persists. Try replacing the ballvalve in the main cold water storage tank.
Look for loose pipes again and finally replace the body (internal section) on the incoming stopcock. If the above fails you can buy a mini anti- shock valve, this has a mini expansion vessel that prevents water hammer, which is the problem you have. Good luck. I have 2 Aqualisa Aquastream power showers nearly 8 years old. One in the bath room and one in the en- suite.
The one in the en- suite was continually running cold after presetting the heat controls and it sounded like the pump was cavitating when it lost temperature. I have turned down the thermostats on both the hot water tank and the boiler to stop it aerating the water. I have run the shower on its highest temp setting for 5 minutes and checked the inner hose for kinks as per info from manufacturers, along with any in line strainers. However, still the same problems. Taken the shower apart, cant see anything wrong, put it back up and now temp control consistent, but the pressure on the outlet of the shower head is poor.
About half the volume is being delivered. Please find an answer for me as these showers ain't cheap to replace.
Change the internal cartridges inside the valves, generally they are excellent showers. What are better, steel or acrylic baths? A very subjective question. Plastic by its very nature will start to move over the years with the weight of people stepping in and out and expansion caused by hot and cold water. Steel will last longer and retain its colour……sorry plastic bath people!
If buying a bath I recommend an extra thick steel bath, which is the same as a standard steel bath apart from it is manufactured with thicker steel giving a superior feel for not much money. Our shower of four years has stopped being hot. Super pressure, but completely cold. Do we just replace it, or can we do something about it?
It depends on who the manufacturer is. It's a minefield repairing showers, as they are all different.
If you do know who the manufacturer is, contact them and request a new thermostatic cartridge, if you don't – seek professional help. My bath is draining very slowly, 1. I've tried standard unblockers to no avail. Any suggestions? It would appear that there is partial blockage or that there is insufficient fall (the angle at which the waste pipe slopes away from the property) – you will need professional advice on this. I suggest you obtain 3 quotes from local plumbers. I want to install a shower over my bath but my bathroom has been tiled fully floor to ceiling and I don't want to smash the tiles up. What's the best way to do it?
Easy – install a Thermostatic bath shower mixer valve – this is basically a bath shower mixer tap with built thermostatic control (a lot hotels now install them) Look out for Aqualisa and Mira, they both manufacture nice looking and very robust taps. I have an electric shower in my flat (one of the basic Mira ones) and when I turn the dial off it often stays on for up to 3. I turn the dial. New shower required…. I have a shower cubical with a hinged door.
The furr (brush seal) along the length of the hinge side and the small seal between the brush seal (up stand) and the hinge along the bottom have worn resulting in the water streaming from the bottom corner of the door and finding its way to the ceiling below. I am in the process of getting replacement seals, but is this a simple job, or should an expert be enlisted for the job? You can carry out this job, remember, when changing the seal, first make sure you clean the area up removing any mastic or silicone. I have a leak from what appears to be my dirt pipe; this is located in my loft as my bathroom is in the centre on my house. Can you advise me the best and cheapest way to fix this problem? I'm not sure what you mean by the term dirt pipe, however, if it's the overflow pipe in your loft that is leaking which is very common, turn off the water at the stopcock that feeds the ballvalve on the loft tank, remove the ballvalve with a spanner (you will require two spanners, one to hold onto the body of the valve and one to turn the nut on the pipe connection).
Take the ballvalve down to your plumbing merchant and they will give the appropriate match. Approx cost Ј7. Tips on taps. My bathroom basin taps have come loose and move about in the hole in the basin (the pipe is still tight in the tap). How do I tighten them - the recess in the underside of the basin is quite narrow and I can't get a spanner up there.
Is there a special tool needed? You need to buy two plastic top hat connectors, these are small plastic connectors that fit under the basin and locate between the tap and the nut which secures the tap to the basin. They cost 3. 0p each and yes you will need a tap spanner which is designed for the job.
The bathroom hot tap has to be turned 2 or 3 turns before it will start running. After that it works fine. Turn off the hot water at the stop cock, remove the body of the tap and change the washer. My brother has fitted my bathroom in and all is fine but both my hot and cold taps if left on run boiling hot water and no cold. Whoops, it would appear that he has installed the supplies both into the hot pipe, if not, check to see if the pressure is equal on both taps.
If you have a combi boiler the hot should come from the boiler and the cold should come from the water main. If the hot was from a combi but the cold was supplied from a water tank, the low pressure cold water supply to the cold tap would be forced back by the high pressure hot water supply thus causing your problem. I have some taps which are a few years old and the tap tops are breaking and need replacement. They have the letters 'BB' on them and I think the first 'B' stands for Barking. Nobody seems to stock these anymore because they are so old. Are you able to help?
The cross section of the tap where the top fits is square and about a quarter inch across. Sounds to me like they are Bristan Taps. These are a good tap manufacturer, isolate the supply to one of the taps, unscrew the body and take it to your local plumbing merchant they'll be able to match it up for you.
I have a dripping hot tap in a cloakroom washbasin. Not being entirely hopeless I attempted to change the washer. After undoing the retaining screw the remaining part of the tap (the headgear nut?) was absolutely stuck fast and could not be shifted at all.
What is the next step? Will the entire tap have to be replaced and does this involve removing the hand basin from the wall?
Go to your plumbing merchant and purchase a pack of tap revivers (each pack has two), it contains new bodies and all the bits you will need, they are fab and the job should only take you 2. I recently fitted new taps to the sink in the bathroom, (single mixer). Since then I can hear water going through the pipes, and have to leave the tap slightly on and dripping, or else the overflow from the tank in the attic drips out. All cold taps come off the mains. The tank in the loft is only used for hot and central heating. Change the ballvalve in the tank.
However first check that the water in the tank is cold, if it is very warm or hot contact a professional as there will be a problem with your heating system. We have a tap which although the insides have been changed still refuse to flow - the stopcocks in the loft have been checked and are fine and fully on, but the taps still refuses to give anything but a drip. Any ideas? Check the washer inside the tap and check the valve in the loft is fully open. Sometimes the valve will appear to be open however it can be jammed almost shut.